Personal Ask – If you find these instructions useful, I would ask that you make a contribution of any size to your local dog rescue shelter.  Thank you.

Disclaimer – Proceed with the instructions below at your own risk.  Do not proceed without first reading the following two blog posts; Peloton – Bicycle Calibration FAQ  and Peloton – Why Bike Calibration Matters

Calibration Instructions

1.  Make sure you have the white parts shown below; they should have been given to you when your bike was delivered.  In addition you will need a hex wrench and a Phillips screw driver.


2.  You need to remove the water bottle holder and sweat guard; there are 4 hex screws and 4 Phillip screws to remove.  If you were sitting on the bike; on the left side you will remove one Phillips screw and two hex screws (blue and yellow arrows).  On the right side of the bike, you will move the same screws, blue (hex) and yellow (Phillips) in addition to two Phillips screws shown by the green arrow.


3.  Login into your bike.  While viewing the screen that shows you upcoming live / recorded rides, you will see a 3 dot icon in the bottom right hand corner of your screen. Tap the icon.


4.  A screen while pop up looking like the photo below, tap the About text.

5.  A screen will pop up looking like the photo below.  In the upper right-hand corner of the pop-up windows, rapidly tap the corner between 10 to 20 times until the windows in step #6 appears.


6.  When the window below appears, tap “Get Started”.


7.  Turn Resistance knob all the way to the left, then tap “Calibrate”. Once you see minimum resistance calibration, please tap “Calibrate Maximum Resistance.”

8.  Turn the resistance knob all the way to the right, then press “Calibrate”. Once you see maximum resistance calibrated, tap “Done.”

9.  Turn the resistance knob all the way to the left then press “Next.”

10.  Place the calibration tool (wedge) between the 2nd and 3rd magnets on the flywheel. The 2nd and 3rd magnets are the two closest to the seat.  Turn the resistance knob to the right until the wedge is secure but can still be removed with a little resistance.  Picture on the right is where the spacer should be for adjustment.

11.  Remove the calibration tool (wedge) and store it away.

12.  Move to the resistance knob and note that the black post below the knob actually can move up into the orange handle.  Make sure to move this black post protector up into the handle and then insert the resistance disks, pictured below.

13.  The two items below are used on the resistance knob.  For simplicity; the item on the top is named Resistance Disk #1 and the item on the bottom is named Resistance Disk #2.  To help further, on Resistance Disk #1, color the left right ridge black with a black marker, it will help as you keep track of each quarter turn of the resistance knob in the instructions below.


14.  First put insert Resistance Disk #2 and spin it until it seats itself and no longer spins freely.  Second, insert Resistance Disk #1 and align the quarter ridge that you marked black with a quarter ridge on Resistance Disk #2 [WHILE ALIGNING THE RIDGES, MAKE SURE TO HOLD THE RESISTANCE KNOB STEADY, DO NOT ALLOW IT TO TURN WHILE YOU ARE ALIGNING THE RIDGE.]

15. Tap “Next” on the screen to begin the calibration.

16.  Press “Set” then begin ¼ turn to the right, and Press “Set”. Having one of the ridges marked with a black marker makes it easier for you to see each quarter turn with accuracy.  Continue with this for the rest of the rotations the screen asks you for, approximately 31 and finish the screen prompts.

17.  Return to the main menu pressing the 3 dots as you did in step #3 and then tap “Device Settings”

18.  Then tap on “Apps” and then tap on “Peloton” and then tap on “Storage”.

19.  Tap on “Clear Cache” then tap on “Clear Data” and then press the “Peloton” icon at the bottom to go back to the home screen.

20.  Once back at the home screen, turn off the screen by pressing the orange button at the top and unplug the bike from the back and this should cycle the new calibration.  You will need to login into your account with your password.

21.  Replace the water bottle holder and sweat guard.

If you have any questions please let me know.



  1. I about a question about step 10, where you place the wedge between the magnets and it can be removed with a little bit of resistance. If I make it harder to remove, will that calibrate my bike on a more difficult level (and thus lower my output)? And conversely, does making it easier to remove serve to increase my numbers? Just trying to understand exactly what that is doing. Thanks.


      1. Thanks for the reply. But isn’t that tightness on the wedge the “starting point” for the resistance measurement? I had assumed that how tight the initial wedge is placed would have a big impact on the calibration – that’s just not correct?


      2. James, I think you and I are talking about two different things. You have the wheel, you have the magnets and then you have the spacer they sent you. When you insert the spacer and turn your tension knob, you want the magnets to press against the spacer which then presses against the wheel. Continuing to turn the tension knob past the point of being able to slide the spacer out does nothing except opening up you breaking your bike. The magnets are metal, the spacer is hard plastic and the wheel is metal – you can’t “compress’ any of them by turning it harder….the spacer is meant to give a uniform distance between the magnets and the wheel to begin calibration. I have a feeling you think the resistance of the bike is driven by some sort of friction between items, it’s not. It’s driven by the how close the magnets get to the flywheel – the closer the magnets to the flywheel, the harder it is to turn your crank, the farther they are from the flywheel the easier. Hence, when the spacer is inserted to the point that it doesn’t easily slide out by itself, but can be slid out with a bit of friction, you are in the right spot to begin the process. Make sense?


  2. Thank you so much for your written out and labeled directions. I plan to do this tonight as I just received the calibration tool in the mail this morning. My one question- the spacer piece that we are suppose to put on the wheel when we are calibrating Maximum resistance, mine is in two parts and doesn’t look like the one in your picture…I have the one (half?) piece in your picture and a corresponding piece. Am I suppose to use just the half piece or both pieces on the wheel? Thank you!


    1. I sent you an email; there is only one piece that slides on the wheel, the other two pieces go on the dial knob on the bike during the process.


    2. Did you ever get an answer to this? My spacer also arrived in two pieces that can be aligned together. It is definitely the spacer in 2 pieces and not just the rotating disks


  3. I received my bike in December and noted a huge difference in power readings from another bike I had been using, which messed up my PZ workouts. I redid a 20 min FTP on the bike at my house and it was 31% lower. I immediately contacted customer service, who talked me through a clearing of the cache and reset. No different. Then, they had me do a factory restore and reset. No different. So I just went with it and rode my bike only. Then I got Asiomo power pedals for my rode bike and put them on the Peloton, working out with an iPad over the screen using Sufferfest. The bike was within 10% only at outputs of 100 or less. By the time the power output was at 300, the bike might be 180-220. At this pooint I contact them again and asked if I could calibrate off the pedals and was told I could not, but they would send the calibration kit. I recieved it and a link to their video. The video states that the wedge should be in place, then the knob turned just tight enough so that it can still be easily removed. I did not take that to mean it should be removed. It does not say, STOP AND REMOVE as you have stated in your post. As a result, tightening the knob damaged the resistance apparatus. The company says it is my doing and I would need to pay out of pocket to fix it even thought the tech said he, himself, has delat with multiple people who find the video provided less clear than your instructions. I am appalled by the customer service, particularly for a $2500 bike when the tech could have spent 30 minutes replacing $10 worth of parts. It all came to this because the bike was so off in the first place and their video is see-are-eh-pee!. The +/-10% between bikes is quite ridiculous unless you are always using the same bike. Not to compete on the leader board, but to be able to complete the same PZ workouts with the zones in the system. Putting this in as a cuationary tale.


  4. Thank you for taking the time to help all of us out. I have a question about a pop up on my monitor after I pressed the Clear Cashe/Clear Data buttons, a pop up came up saying something like all App data or something like that with the options to accept or cancel. Your instructions said nothing about that but I ignored that pop up and hit the Peloton icon and proceeded with your instructions. Did I need to do something with that pop up? Thank you.


    1. I would have to see a screen shot of the pop up; but to be safe, you can delete everything, your rides are stored in the cloud, not I. The bike, so when you login again everything is there for you.


  5. Helpful. What’s crazy is that I just calibrated and I’m currently on my first post calibration ride …and who do I see on the board? QuienEsMasMacho. High fived immediately. Crazy coincidence. Thanks again for the write up. Feels so much easier but not sure it’s right. I’m noticing I am around 215 watts with 100 cadence and 45 resistance which appears to be correct as per other articles I’ve read. But, when I turn the wheel all the way to the left, the lowest the resistance goes is 6. Thoughts?


    1. Sorry, don’t know how I missed this post, I’m sure you have addressed by now, but a full turn on the dial should result in a 0 – if it doesn’t and you have tried calibrating again then I would contact Peloton and have them send out a tech.


  6. Step 17 has a typo, I think it should say “and then tap”, not “ten tap”. I thought I had to do a multiple taps like in step 5 and couldn’t get it to work. I finally realized it was a typo.


  7. I have tried this calibration many times over and my output is consistently 10% lower. Interestingly, the output and resistance do not appear to be consistent. My output at 30 of resistance seems to fall within your curve. That said, it is off by about 10% at 40 and about 14% at 50. The resistance also feels harder than those same settings previously. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Thinking about contacting support, but suspect that they will do the same thing. Any thoughts?


  8. First off, thank you for asking for donations to animal rescues! My daughter started a non profit rescue in the US Virgin Islands (Off The Rocks Animal Rescue) and donations are what allows them to do what they do and save lives!

    Secondly, how do you know if your Peloton bike needs recalibrating? Would it have been calibrated when it was delivered?


    1. Bike should have been calibrated at delivery.
      How do you know if it’s not, read the FAQ, most obvious is over performing according to the leader board, large discrepancy between taking rides on different bikes, and an overall sense that your performance is not matching your relative cardiovascular development; meaning, if you can’t run a 6 minute mile you shouldn’t be in the top 5 of every bike ride. Take care and let me know of any questions.


      1. Is there any validity to the resistance knob check for determining calibration? I’ve heard there should be about 1.5 turns left after you get down to zero, before or won’t turn further, and about 1 turn above 100. Is this correct?


      2. OK, thank you. But if the bike doesn’t go down to zero, recalibrating is still the correct option, right? Ours would go no lower than 1 or 2 prior to recalibration. It does now. And hitting our old outputs is harder. I think this makes sense..


  9. When I do the calibration the Peloton screens leads through the various steps, but it never tells you to put in the wedge. Did they get rid of that step, or are you just supposed to know to put in the wedge tat that point?

    I’m wondering if they made a software change where the wedge is no longer needed.

    I calibrated the bike about 6 months ago with the wedge, and when I did it again this time it got significantly harder. I tried without the wedge and it seemed closer to what it was before.



  10. THANK YOU so much for this tutorial! My output was way off and I requested a calibration kit from Peloton. Their YouTube video was useless because the tablet they’re using in the video is out of date. I called support and their call center rep just watched the video while on the phone with me and gave me the same stupid directions! After 3 hours, my bike was even worse. I followed your instructions and everything works as it should and it only took me 5 minutes!! Peloton should send customers your instructions instead.


  11. Calibrated with the Peloton support directions and the bike was way off. Beat my previous records by 40/50 points. Then recalibrated with your instructions. So much clearer and results were exactly what I had hoped when I calibrated the first time. I just wanted to get the bike to a spot where it matched my original bike settings and matched my effort levels,. Thank you!!


  12. Great post and answers a lot of questions. I am having the same problem with my average for 530 rides being 600 output. My last 3 rides are 530 ish and I can barely peddle at 55. I calibrated 6 times trying different things but nothing fixed my bike. One question that no one at Peloton could answer was when I turn the knob all the way to the left I could actually turn it a 1/4-1/2 turn more if I apply a little extra force. Same when I turn the knob all the way to the right. There is the natural stop and the stop that is 1/4-1/2 more if I apply modest force. Secondly and I think you answered above was how tight to place the tool on the wheel. It’s interesting that you are more detailed with your advice to clear the cache vs Peloton video that doesn’t suggest that. I am at a loss as recalibration didn’t do anything. Thanks


  13. I got my Peloton on Monday Feb 11th. Peloton Field Team calibrated my bike on delivery with me assisting to make sure I knew how to do it. We did a Factory Reset after the calibration, rebooted the bike, and logged back in. Did several short rides on the first two days, but the relevant one is the 5 Minute Intro to Peloton Part 2 with Matt Wilpers. The first day I rode it I had an avg cadence of 79, avg resistance of 33%, avg heart rate of 148, and average watts of 145 for an output of 43kj over the 5 minutes. I had good/normal feeling rides the next day with similar output levels averaged across the ride– everything seemed normal. I took a day off and when I went to ride again, it felt like my output was way out of step with my effort. I repeated the same 5 minute ride on Friday the 15th, and this time the numbers were similar in some ways but the wattage and output were radically different. Ride 2 had avg cadence of 88 (so higher than Ride 1), average resistance of 33% (same as Ride 1), average heart rate of 152 (higher than R1), for an average watts of 82 and a total output of 24kj. I recalibrated and nothing is different– still the same radically lower output on that ride. I recalibrated and nothing is different.

    So here’s my question: if output is a function of cadence and resistance, and my cadence was higher for the same average resistance, how could I get an output 44% lower? Does this sound like a bike problem? I can’t figure out what went wrong, but I know that something is way off if on the same ride a higher cadence, same resistance, higher HR gets me a radically lower output. I’ve tried recalibrating and nothing seems to change. Any guesses?


    1. Sorry for the delay, was on the road.

      If I am understanding you correctly, you are saying as an example, you rode your bike at a resistance of 40 and cadence of 70 and you had an output of 200. Then the next day you rode your bike at a resistance of 40 and a cadence of 90 and your bike was showing you an output less than 200?

      If that is what you are asking then yes, you have a bike problem and my first suggestion is to recalibrate your bike and start from there.


      1. Yep, that’s precisely what happened. Same or higher cadence at same average resistance and higher HR, with about 40% lower wattage and total output. I hadn’t recalibrated between the two rides when that happened. And before the first ride showing the higher output, the Peloton Field Team had calibrated my bike on delivery.

        Anyhow, Peloton came out today, replaced the tablet and calibrated the bike. Haven’t had a chance to ride yet but I will be comparing that same 5-minute ride to see how the average output stacks up, prob tomorrow.


  14. Thank you SO much for your clear instructions and photos I did this today and it was successful. Sent donation to our local shelter!


  15. Hello,

    Thank you for the detailed instructions. I calibrated my bike today because I was growing increasingly frustrated with my output and leaderboard placement, despite being fit and active for the last 8 years (including mountain biking, road cycling, mountain biking specific training programs, CrossFit, weightlifting, bouldering, etc.). I finished *every* ride in the bottom 10% and struggled to get to the bottom resistance range of an instructor’s call-outs. I resigned myself to scaling the rides.

    My wife had it even worse. She’s as active as I am and does the same activities, and has been one of the top women at 3 different CrossFit gyms and currently CrossFit’s 3-5x a week. She was somehow finishing in the bottom 5% of her rides.

    Then I started researching calibration issues and found this site (and others). The breaking point that pushed me to calibrate is when I saw a post by someone in the Facebook Power Zone page. It was by a woman who appeared to be in her 40’s (our maybe even her 50’s), who had been sedentary since injuries she suffered 5 years ago in CrossFit. She (like me) had just gotten her bike, and had only done 8-10 rides (like me at the time) and her average output on the 20-minute FTP test was higher than mine.

    At that point I knew something had to be wrong. My post-calibration ride confirms it: I bested my previous 45-minute “PR” (from just last week) of 228 by over 200 – today I got 433. I also placed in the top 20%, and most importantly, I was at the top of (if not 5-10 above) all of the call-out ranges. In addition, my heart rate seemed to match the output *much* more appropriately. I spent most of the ride in Zone 4 (high 150-160’s), whereas before I spent a lot of rides in Zone 3… which indicates I was going anaerobic even at lower resistances and wasn’t really pushing my cardio. Now that the bike is properly calibrated, I can push higher cadences at higher resistances (as prescribed by the instructor) and really got my heart rate up.

    My wife is excited to take her first post-calibration ride tomorrow.

    Thank you again for the info.

    Liked by 1 person

      1. I just did my post-calibration FTP test today. I went from pre-calibration FTP this past Tuesday 1/1/2019 average output 107 to 197 today. My very first FTP test a few weeks ago was 95. I retook it a few days ago pre-calibration to try and isolate any differences to only the calibration vs. changes in fitness or experience/knowledge of the test.

        Once again, heart rate zones and perceived effort matched. I went from being just about bottom 80% to top 30% on the leaderboard for this ride. This again matches my fitness levels and Strava placements on real road bike rides over the years.

        My wife went from bottom 5% to 70th percentile – which, given her current concentration on CrossFit and lack of real bike riding over the last year, seems appropriate. She was also able to hit the instructor’s call-outs.

        Thank you again.


      2. Just got my bike a month ago. I can’t beat my first ride output at a hotel gym. I turn my knob all the way to left. It takes 2.5 full revolutions to get it to say anything other than 0. It goes from 0 to 3 at the 2.5 full turn. Then it increases basically 3 points every 1/4 turn. Should my bike be at 3 with just a 1/4 turn? So at 3 full
        Revolutions the resistance says 9, 4 turns 21. Wondering if this is normal ? I received the calibration kit and watched your video but it looks so complicated. Don’t want to do it if my bike is normal. Any advice


      3. Patrica, I hope you are well. If I am understanding your post correctly, you are asking why you can’t reach your output at the hotel gym Peloton compared to your own bike – I would offer that you should look at it differently. You can only control you home bike; so yes, the only thing you can do to be as close to what “Peloton” suggests is to calibrate your bike. Trust me, while it looks complicated it really isn’t, go for it and if you run into any issues or questions I am always an email away and will get back to you asap. Take care, all the best.


      4. So on your bike how many 1/4 turns from far left to starting the revolutions does your bike show something other than 0? Is my bike not the norm ? Thanks for responding so fast also. So nice to have a place to ask these questions 👏🏻👍🏻


    1. MIKE! The old injured cross-fitter is ME! I am still getting the hang of this and checked my calibration for the first time today. Not good news: The lowest resistance figure that my bike will go down to is a “10”. Clearly my bike is out of calibration too. So, now I have to calibrate it, and then probably re-take my FTP test, and I’m 25 rides in and afraid I may never see those same outputs again. I suppose it was good while it lasted.

      The hard part for me is going to be figuring out when to re-take FTP. I just took one Saturday, and did my first 45-minute ride today. I need to rest my legs before trying again.


      1. Hi Libby,

        Before I calibrated my bike, I never checked how far the knob turned from maximum left/right before changing from either “0” or “100.” I read after the fact (from someone on our Facebook group) that the knob should turn about 1.5 turns from completely open/close before it changes from “0-1” or “100-99”. As it stands now, my bike is 1.5 turns from 0-1 and 2 turns from 100-99.

        And to be clear, I hope you didn’t take my original post as me questioning your original results, and I certainly didn’t mean it to come off as if I were saying “there’s no way she’s capable of that output, she needs to calibrate her bike.” I apologize if it did. I’ve been around enough people (women and men) in various fitness activities to never question their individual feats.

        Rather, I saw your results as further evidence of a real issue with my bike for the reasons I mentioned above. To put this in clearer perspective, not only have I done a lot of CrossFit/lifting over the years (and can deadlift well over 2x my body weight and back squat a little less than 2x), but more importantly I’ve done a ton of road cycling and mountain biking. During those rides, I always rode in the heaviest gears on flat roads and was no stranger to long, steep climbs both in and out of the saddle. Yet somehow, my Peloton bike pre-calibration was difficult even at 35 resistance; and 40-45 already felt like some of the more difficult climbs I’ve done over the years. I read somewhere that 30-40 should feel like flat road; it felt like anything but on my Peloton pre-calibration.

        Now with that said, the great thing with Power Zone training is that you’ll still get an individually tailored workout based on your efforts – so you’ll be fine even if you don’t calibrate your bike (just like I would’ve been if I hadn’t). The bike is great regardless of calibration issues, and on Power Zone rides I usually turn off the leaderboard anyways.

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Hi Mike!

        I didn’t take the slightest offense at your comment. I laughed when I realized you were talking about my post! I’ve been seeing posts from other riders about their FTP/output scores and thinking mine were high for my current fitness level. I’ve had times in my life when I was very fit. This is NOT one of them. But somehow I managed a top-15% finish on a beginner class? Sure, that’s fun, but I also realize it’s not real life. I just hadn’t realized how far out of calibration my bike was until today when I tried turning the knobs.

        I wonder who else has had their low-end resistance reading stop at 10 and go no lower.

        I have a feeling my bike is going to feel MUCH harder once I calibrate! I ordered the kit from Peloton today so expect to have it in a week or so.

        Yes, I know I could leave it as is and go one with life, but I’m OCD and that’s just not going to work for me. I’ll fix it, take my lumps, and move on from there.

        My LB name is #Laughing_one – maybe someday I’ll high five you from the bottom of the leaderboard!

        Take care,


      3. P.S. I miss crossfit, but it was deadlifts that did me in. Peloton provides the same camaraderie for me but without the searing back pain and persistent leg numbness. Woot woot!


      4. Mike – Somebody on Reddit recommended trying a factory reset. I did that just now and my bike is now reading 0 at the bottom and 100 at the top. I have ordered a calibration kit but time will tell if I need it.


      5. Hi Libby,

        It’s funny you mention the Crossfit injuries. Over the last few weeks since I got the Peloton, I’ve gone to Crossfit less and less (in large part because of the Holidays, partly because of work, and also partly because I chose to ride the Peloton instead). I’ve definitely noticed that my body aches a *lot* less; my knees and joints don’t ache when I get up off the ground, and I no longer have to wear knee braces to recover from my workout lol. I think the Peloton is such a great choice to get a great workout without wrecking the body, unlike Crossfit.

        Now that you did the factory reset, it sounds like it’d be best to do more rides before you decide if you need to calibrate.

        Happy riding! #Bearrister

        Liked by 1 person

      6. I did a 45-minute PZE ride this morning and it felt exactly the same. Checked calibration at the end and got 0 and 100 as I should have. I still wonder if it’s off, but not totally convinced it is. I was in the bottom of the leaderboard today so that seems right. LOL!

        CrossFit beat the heck out of me, but I LOVED it. I’d go to the 5:30 a.m. class and drag in the door afterward completely exhausted from the battle but feeling like I conquered the world. My husband said it made me nicer, too. LOL! 😉 This gives me the competition and the push to work hard, but isn’t beating the hell out of my back and joints. I’ll take it!


  16. Thanks for this excellent post. I’ve had my bike for a little over a month and have been riding hard 3 times a week. I was a sprinter in high school, and I’d continued running my entire life until my third meniscus surgery and a torn toe ligament brought the end to that at my present age of 56. I considered myself in good shape from the running. I’ve been pushing hard in HIIT classes, following the instructors’ recommendations on resistance and cadence. My heart rate is often at 107% give or take for most of the intervals. And I’ve found myself regularly below 50% on the leaderboard. Now, I didn’t run 7 minute miles, but I considered myself in shape, and I can see behind the instructors that many in the live studio aren’t pushing as hard as I am. Something didn’t make sense.

    Anyway, I called Peloton and ordered the calibration kit. I said, “Is it true that Peloton recommends against home calibration?” and the support agent responded, “No, we’re fine with it.”

    The parts came quickly – no charge – but no other information on how to proceed. I did find one official Peloton video on calibration on YouTube, and it says about the same as here with less specificity. I think Peloton has made a huge mistake with the onscreen instructions for calibration; there are no instructions whatsoever when the point comes to insert the calibration wedge tool. Someone without this link or the video link could easily skip that step and not partially close the magnets before proceeding, and I not think that explains why a 60 year old was in the #1 slot on the leaderboard for a class of over 5000.

    Also, there are no instructions to “clear data”, and software upgrades have made that process different that indicated here. You have to go to “device settings”, then “Apps”, then “Peloton”, and finally click on “Storage” to find that button.

    I think others are correct to be wary about the calibration wedge tightness; I suspect this step alone accounts for the variances among all bikes, even those tuned by “Peloton” pros, if there is such a thing. I performed all steps very, very carefully, shut down, unplugged, rebooted, and then prepared for a ride.

    My highest performance in a 30 minute class (where I was literally pouring sweat on the bike) was 235. On my first post-calibration ride, I pushed as hard and achieved a 280. I went from below 50% to right around 33% or at the bottom of the top third. That felt right to me.

    I wish there was a guaranteed better standardization, but now I know better. Regardless, the workout was awesome at both performance levels. Fantastic machine.


  17. These are excellent instructions, however, I think that using the resistance disks in steps 14-17 while making the 31 1/4 turns is unnecessary. My suggestion is to place strips of painter’s tape across the top of the resistance knob prior to starting the 1/4 turn process, such that one strip goes across the top of the knob, side to side (9 to 3 on the clock face), and a second strip goes top to bottom (12 to 6 on the clock face). These strips of tape serve the exact same purpose of ensuring you make precise 1/4 turns as you go through the calibration process. To the best of my knowledge, those resistance disks do nothing other than help to determine 1/4 turns. What do you think? Are the disks necessary?

    Also, it would be interesting to hear from you how “snug” the wedge should be between the magnets and the flywheel at the start of the process. It’s possible to make it pretty snug and still remove the wedge by rotating the flywheel forward. This starting point in where the 1/4 turns begin can make a difference.

    Thanks again for the post.


    1. Correct; in theory, you could use anything you would like, or nothing, as long as you accurately turn the dial 1/4 turn per request. In essence the disks are nothing more than a visual aid to help accomplish this.

      In regards to how the disk should feel when entered between the magnets; you should be able to easily slide the disk out and in, but at the same time feel the slightest tension – as a guide, you should not be able to flick the guide out by just tapping on it. In regards to the starting point being impacted by the tightness, this is not an issue as the plastic disk is not compressible; what you do want to avoid is over tightening it with the wedge in place as to distort bendable parts, etc.

      Take care, all the best.


  18. This is a good post, along with the other two links. I have two comments:

    1) it would be interesting to know how snug the magnets should be against the wall


    1. Take a look at my reply above to a similar question; “In regards to how the disk should feel when entered between the magnets; you should be able to easily slide the disk out and in, but at the same time feel the slightest tension – as a guide, you should not be able to flick the guide out by just tapping on it. In regards to the starting point being impacted by the tightness, this is not an issue as the plastic disk is not compressible; what you do want to avoid is over tightening it with the wedge in place as to distort bendable parts, etc.”

      Take care.


  19. Thanks for the info. My wife volunteers for lab rescue LRCP in MD and we donate time and money for this worthy cause, we’ll add a little extea on the next go around.


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