The key things I want you to take away from this post are;
- A very key point here to keep reinforcing; any bike should produce the same total output figure given the same resistance and the same cadence; this is formula driven, calibration driven. Again, calibration is assuring that your bike is as hard to run the crank at a 40 resistance as it should be; example
- Download the Excel sheet below and graph your output settings.
- When you graph your output figures, as funny as it sounds, do not focus on the actual output numbers matching my figures; focus on the following.
- First, at each resistance setting, as you move to a higher cadence, your graph should move predictably higher and in a smooth fashion from left to right; [See graph below]
- Second, the gap between each DIFFERENT resistance setting at THE SAME CADENCE should be somewhat uniform.
Below is what you don’t want to see, should be self explanatory;
What is your takeaway? You should be re-calibrating your bike per the instructions to first create your baseline. Second, you can use the Excel sheet below to measure your bike on your own schedule to determine if your bike needs adjustment. Peloton Measurement Sheet
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So, I’m looking at the excel doc. Do I just plug my own numbers into the yellow portion? Want to figure out how to know if I’m correctly calibrated. My numbers don’t match what you have in yellow.
Darren Siegel, what you posted has ZERO to do with calibration. Most people simply don’t get it. 100RPM at 50 resistance will always yield 200W. Whether you are 90% over calibration or 15% under. It’s all about how it feels
Thanks for sharing your calibration hints video and this information here. After recalibrating my bike following the replacement of the cadence sensor, I have discovered that my original setup was “under calibrated” by around 30%. Prior to my recalibration, riding 100RPM at 50 resistance yielded around 200W. Post calibration, my metrics seem to align well with your chart above.